Pearl Jewelry

Pearl

source : wikipedia

A pearl is a hard object produced within the soft tissue (specifically the mantle) of a living shelled mollusk. Just like the shell of a mollusk, a pearl is made up of calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form, which has been deposited in concentric layers. The ideal pearl is perfectly round and smooth, but many other shapes of pearls (baroque pearls) occur. The finest quality natural pearls have been highly valued as gemstones and objects of beauty for many centuries, and because of this, the word pearl has become a metaphor for something very rare, fine, admirable, and valuable.

Valuable pearls occur in the wild, but they are very rare. Cultured or farmed pearls from pearl oysters make up the majority of those that are currently sold. Pearls from the sea are valued more highly than freshwater pearls. Imitation or fake pearls are also widely sold in inexpensive jewelry, but the quality of their iridescence is usually very poor - and generally speaking, artificial pearls are easily distinguished from genuine pearls. Pearls have been harvested and cultivated primarily for use in jewelry, but in the past they were also stitched onto lavish clothing. Pearls have also been crushed and used in cosmetics, medicines, or in paint formulations.

Pearls that are considered to be of gemstone quality are almost always nacreous and iridescent, like the interior of the shell that produces them. However, almost all species of shelled mollusks are capable of producing pearls (formerly referred to as "calcareous concretions" by some sources) of lesser shine or less spherical shape. Although these may also be legitimately referred to as "pearls" by gemological labs and also under U.S. Federal Trade Commission rules, and are formed in the same way, most of them have no value, except as curios.

Definition

Almost any shelled mollusk can, by natural processes, produce some kind of "pearl" when an irritating microscopic object becomes trapped within the mollusk's mantle folds, but the great majority of these "pearls" are not valued as gemstones. Nacreous pearls, the best-known and most commercially-significant pearls, are primarily produced by two groups of molluscan bivalves or clams. A nacreous pearl is made from layers of nacre, by the same living process as is used in the secretion of the mother of pearl which lines the shell.

A "natural pearl" is one that forms without any human intervention at all, in the wild, and is very rare. Many hundreds of pearl oysters or pearl mussels have to be gathered and opened, and thus killed, in order to find even one wild pearl, and for many centuries that was the only way pearls were obtained. This was the main reason why pearls fetched such extraordinary prices in the past. A cultured pearl, on the other hand, is one that has been formed with human intervention on a pearl farm.

One family of nacreous pearl bivalves, the pearl oysters, lives in the sea while the other, very different group of bivalves live in freshwater; these are the river mussels such as the freshwater pearl mussel. Saltwater pearls can grow in several species of marine pearl oysters in the family Pteriidae. Freshwater pearls grow within certain (but by no means all) species of freshwater mussels in the order Unionida, the families Unionidae and Margaritiferidae.



A black pearl and a shell of the black-lipped pearl oyster








A pearl being extracted from an akoya pearl oyster.

Value of a natural pearl

Quality natural pearls are very rare jewels. The actual value of a natural pearl is determined in the same way as it would be for other "precious" gems. The valuation factors include size, shape, quality of surface, orient and luster.

Single natural pearls are often sold as a collector's item, or set as centerpieces in unique jewelry. Very few matched strands of natural pearls exist, and those that do often sell for hundreds of thousands of dollars. (In 1917, jeweler Pierre Cartier purchased the Fifth Avenue mansion that is now the New York Cartier store for US$100 cash and a double strand of matched natural pearls valued at the time at US$1 million.)

Keshi pearls, although they often occur by chance, are not considered natural pearls. They are a byproduct of the culturing process, and hence do not happen without human intervention. These pearls are quite small: typically a few millimeters in size. Keshi pearls are produced by many different types of marine mollusks and freshwater mussels in China. Today many "keshi" pearls are actually intentional, with post-harvest shells returned to the water to regenerate a pearl in the existing pearl sac.

source : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pearl

Jewelry Art Awards 2009 of Jewelry Artist Magazine

The 2009 Jewelry Arts Awards

Jewelry Artist magazine's annual competition yields 10 outstanding winners

Pins & Brooches

Naomi Sarna
First Place, Pins/Brooches
(Also Best of Competition)
FIRST WAVE
32mm x 23mm. 18K gold, Chinese freshwater pearl, VS diamonds, Montana sapphires, Contra-luz opals, Imperial topaz. Handmade lost-wax gold setting surrounding pegged and epoxy-set pearl. All stones are pave set with bright-cut finishing. Photo: Azad. sarna.naomi@gmail.com, naomisarnadesigns.com

Naomi Sarna
Second Place, Pins/Brooches
JUBILANT HEART. 38.5mm x 43.3 mm. 87.5 carat rose quartz, 18K gold, VS diamonds, Montana sapphire, Impreial topaz, Contra-luz opal. Lost-wax carved and gold-cast setting. Photo: Azad. sarna.naomi@gmail.com, naomisarnadesigns.com

Bracelets

Genevieve Yang
First Place, Bracelets
MOON PHASES CUFF. 2.0" x 2.5" x 1.75". Fine silver, sterling silver edge, and 24K gold. Spray of flush set VS F plus diamonds, Hand fabricated, forged, roller embossed, keumboo, flush setting. Photo: Hap Sakwa. genevieve@genevieveyang.com, www.genevieveyang.com

Alex Maryaskin
Second Place, Bracelets
UNTITLED. 8". 14K yellow gold, Australian opal, and diamonds. Filigree work, scroll work, and spiral and granulation detail. Photo: Ralph Gabriner. 757-596-0481, www.artoffiligree.com

Earrings

Nanz Aalund
First Place, Earrings
NAUTILUS EARRINGS
33mm x 5mm x 26mm each earring. 22K gold and epoxy resin. Corrugated 22K gold is spiraled with epoxy resin cast into the spiral. Fabricated ear clip. Photo: Doug Yaple. nanz@nanzaalund.com, www.nanzaalund.com

Pendants/Necklaces

Marie Scarpa
First Place, Pendants/Necklaces
TWENTY ONE. 3.25" x 3" x 5". 20-gauge Argentium sheet, 3mm Argentium heavy walled tubing, 12-gauge round Argentium wire, 36-gauge 3½% platinum silver wire, 34-gauge 18K yellow gold wire, 7mm 1.51 carat whirlpool cut citrine, 2.5mm round faceted black spinels, 4.5 round white freshwater pearls. Fabrication including sawing and soldering, hand weaving, stone setting and hand polishing, and texturing. Photo: Hap Sakwa. 707-765-6558, www.mariescarpadesigns.com.

Melissa Pedersen
Second Place, Pendants/Necklaces
CELEBRATION SPROUT NECKLACE. 25cm x 15cm x 3cm. Sterling silver, Argentium silver, 3mm fresh water pearls. Hand carved wax, lost wax casting, fused, constructed, and soldered. Photo by the artist. info@melissapedersen.com, www.melissapedersen.com.

Miscellaneous Jewelry

Jeffrey Appling
First Place, Miscellaneous Jewelry
BROKEN CIRCLE. 17" and 10mm. Sterling silver, 14K white gold, 14K yellow gold plate, 13mm faceted triangular black spinel, 2.0mm black diamonds, and 2mm colorless diamonds. Black rubber neoprene. Carved, cast, fabricated, flush set and tension set. Photo: Hap Sakwa. 760-322-2883, www.JeffreyAppling.com.

Robin Antonsen
Second Place, Miscellaneous Jewelry
OBJECT. 6". Sterling silver hair pin. Constructed, rolling mill, hydraulic press, and patina. Photo by the artist. brightshadow@cheerful.com.

Rings

Jeffrey Appling
First Place, Rings
SURFER RINGS. 15mm x 21mm x 29mm. Silver and copper with paint pigment cross-linked into the upper metal molecules, 2mm diamonds, 7.5mm freshwater cultured pearls. Carved, cast, tension set, flush set, baked. Photo: Hap Sakwa. 760-322-2883, www.JeffreyAppling.com.


L. Sue Szabo
Second Place, Rings
SWAY. 1.5" L x 0.375" W 1" D. Sterling silver, 4 carat pink sapphires, 0.33 carat burmese ruby. Hand fabricated, tube settings for gems. Photo: Ericka Crissman/Wired Images. www.lsueszabo.com

For information on entering your jewelry in the next competition, click here!

source : jewelryartistmagazine.com

Jewelry Art Awards 2007 of Jewelry Artist Magazine

source : Jewelry Artist

Jewelry Artist is pleased to announce the winners of our 2007 Jewelry Arts Awards. Entries for our sixth annual competition were judged by Todd Reed, a self-taught goldsmith and metalsmith who has been exploring the use of rough diamonds in his award-winning, signature jewelry since 1992; Robert Diamante, a professional photographer who has been photographing jewelry for the craft industry since 1993; and Thomas Mann, a jeweler committed to both the artistic and business sides of jewelry making, who has been active in the contemporary craft movement for more than 30 years.

Congratulations to the winners and our thanks to the judges and everyone who entered.

Jewelry Arts Awards 2007 Winners

Miscellaneous Jewelry

First Place: Daniel M. Nagy - Best of Competition
(also First Place, Miscellaneous Jewelry) Frutto di Mare

14K yellow and white gold 353.5g, 3pcs Tahitian pearls 9mm semi baroque, 2pcs 10.5 round AAA grade 86 pcs, 1.659 ct. brilliant cut diamonds. Wax carved and chased shells, hand cut handpiece, and engraved gemstone buttons. Original electronics only; workable inner part is rebuilt based on design and requirements. 200mm x 80mm x 70mm.
Photo: Arion Kudasz Gabor.

Miscellaneous Jewelry

First Place: Daniel M. Nagy, Frutto di Mare, above.
Second Place: Blue Moon, Marie Scarpa

Maria Scarpa, Second Place
Miscellaneous Jewelry
Blue Moon, 18K gold and platinum, hand fabricated pin/pendant; bezel-set 18mm 7.15ct abalone pearl center and 64 spires divided into 3 levels. Woven, invisibly soldered. Embellished with 28 round faceted 2.0mm pink sapphires, 4 round faceted 2.5mm yellow sapphires, eight round faceted 2.5mm blue sapphires, 4 round faceted 2.9mm blue sapphires, 16 round faceted 3.0mm teal green tourmalines, 4 round faceted 3.5mm teal green tourmalines. Hand fabricated and hand woven. 2.25".

Earrings

First Place (tied): Dream Catcher, Jeffrey Appling
First Place (tied): Whirlpool, Daniel M. Nagy

Jeffrey Appling, First Place (tied)
Earrings (above)
Dream Catcher, platinum chain, 18K yellow and white gold. Two half-moon diamonds, two 5-point-star diamonds, six natural yellow diamonds, 2mm square and round ruby, blue and yellow sapphire, spessartite, tsavorite, blue/green tourmaline, amethyst, two half-moon drusy onyx tablets. Cast manufacture, hand fabrication, bezel, tube, bead, and mock (bead) setting for cubes. 62mm x 26.5mm.
Photo: Hap Sakwa.

Daniel M. Nagy. First Place (tied)
Earrings
Whirlpool, 18K white gold, 15.5g. Tahitian pearl AAA, 10mm round 2pcs. Computer designed, wax printed, chased, hand finished. 120mm x 20mm x 20mm.
Photo: Daniel M. Nagy.

Rings

First Place: Pearl Protrusion, Jeffrey Appling
Second Place: Message, Daniel M. Nagy and Agnes Kertesz

Jeffrey Appling, First Place
Rings (above)
Pearl Protrusion, 950 platinum, 8.5mm faceted black cultured pearl and 8.5mm faceted white cultured pearl, tsavorite garnets and pink sapphires. Hand carved wax and of cast manufacture, bead-set small round gemstones and hand carved (artwork) along outside borders. 10.5mm x 20mm. Photo: Hap Sakwa.

Daniel M. Nagy & Agnes Kertesz, Second Place
Rings (above)
Message, 18K white gold 10.8g, Tahitian pearl AAA round 1pc 9.4mm, brilliant cut diamonds. 20mm x 15mm.

Bracelets

First Place: Salad Blues, Laura Parr
Second Place: Dragon of 4 Elements, Dmitriy Pavlov

Laura Parr, First Place
Bracelets (above)
Salad Blues, forged and riveted sterling silver sheet, wire, tube, copper sheet; ten 1.5 millimeter, tube-set and riveted sapphires; ink. 51mm x 82mm x 72mm.
Photo: Jeremy Addington.



Dmitriy Pavlov, Second Place
Bracelets (above)
Dragon of 4 Elements, pierced, bent, and engraved sterling silver. 51mm x 82mm x 72mm.
Photo: Galina Pavlova.

Pins & Brooches

First Place: Inception, Tricia Lachowiec
Second Place: Star, Wendy McAllister

Tricia Lachowiec, First Place
Pins/Brooches (above)
Inception, 18K gold on sterling silver, copper, enamel, diamond, steel. Chasing and repoussé, enameling. 23⁄4" x 1-5⁄8" x 3⁄4".
Photo: Dean Powell.
Wendy McAllister, Second Place
Pins/Brooches (above)
Star, sterling silver, acrylic, lenticular lens, 24K gold leaf, fabricated silver brooch, fabricated double pinstem back; found objects: candle bobeche and child’s ruler. 3.5".
Photo: Ralph Gabriner.

Pendants & Necklaces

First Place: Mary Darwall
Second Place (tied): Evolution, Jeffrey Appling
Second Place (tied): Fruit, Tricia Lachowiec

Mary Darwall, First Place
Pendants/Necklaces (above)
Eleven turquoise cabochons, turquoise beads, freshwater pearls, glass seed beads, beading cloth, nylon thread, 49-strand wire, 14K closure, leather backing. Hand needle woven, bead appliqué, freeform peyote, branching stitches. 18".
Photo: John Yohman.
Jeffrey Appling, Second Place (tied)
Pendants/Necklaces (above)
Evolution, 30.37ct drilled citrine intruded with malachite, coral, and lapis tubes, 3.66cts. Drilled-out citrine pavilion injected with gemstones, pendant area cast, and hand fabricated. 16", 30.5mm x 33mm.
Photo: Hap Sakwa.

Tricia Lachowiec, Second Place (tied)
Pendants/Necklaces (above)
Fruit, oxidized sterling silver, electroformed copper, enamel, 14K gold, cognac diamonds, sapphires. Electroforming and enameling. 10" x 6-1⁄4" x 1-1⁄4".
Photo: Dean Powell.

source : Jewelry Artist