History of Gold

Gold has a long and complex history. From gold’s first discovery, it has symbolized wealth and guaranteed power. Gold has caused obsession in men and nations, destroyed some cultures and gave power to others.

Archaeological digs suggest the use of Gold began in the Middle East where the first known civilizations began. The oldest pieces of gold jewelry Egyptian jewelry were found in the tomb of Queen Zer and that of Queen Pu-abi of Ur in Sumeria and are the oldest examples found of any kind of jewelry in a find from the third millennium BC. Over the centuries, most of the Egyptian tombs were raided, but the tomb of Tutankhamen was discovered undisturbed by modern archaeologists. Inside the largest collection of gold and jewelry in the world was found and included a gold coffin whose quality showed the advanced state of Egyptian craftsmanship and goldworking (second millennium BC).

The Persian Empire, in what is now Iran, made frequent use of Gold in artwork as part of the religion of Zoroastrianism. Persian goldwork is most famous for its animal art, which was modified after the Arabs conquered the area in the 7th century AD.

When Rome began to flourish, the city attracted talented Gold artisans who created gold jewelry of wide variety. The use of gold in Rome later expanded into household items and furniture in the homes of the higher classes. By the third century AD, the citizens of Rome wore necklaces that contained coins with the image of the emperor. As Christianity spread through the European continent, Europeans ceased burying their dead with their jewelry. As a result, few gold items survive from the Middle Ages, except those of royalty and from church hordes.

In the Americas, the skill of Pre-Columbian cultures in the use of Gold was highly advanced long before the arrival of the Spanish. Indian goldsmiths had mastered most of the techniques known by their European contemporaries when the Spanish arrived. They were adept at filigree, granulation, pressing and hammering, inlay and lost-wax methods. The Spanish conquerors melted down most of the gold that they took from the peoples of this region and most of the remaining examples have come from modern excavations of grave sites. The greatest deposits of gold from these times were in the Andes and in Columbia.

During the frontier days of the United States news of the discovery of gold in a region could result in thousands of new settlers, many risking their lives to find gold. Gold rushes occurred in many of the Western States, the most famous occuring in California at Sutter’s Mill in 1848. Elsewhere, gold rushes happened in Australia in 1851, South Africa in 1884 and in Canada in 1897.

The rise of a gold standard was meant to stabilize the global economy, dictating that a nation must limit its issued currency to the amount of gold it held in reserve. Great Brittain was the first to adopt the gold standard in 1821, followed, in the 1870s, by the rest of Europe followed. The system remained in effect until the end of the first world war, after which the US was the only country still honoring the Gold Standard. After the war, other countries were allowed to keep reserves of major currencies instead of gold. The arrival of the great depression marked the end of the U.S. export of gold in the 1930s. By mid 20th century, the US dollar had replaced gold in international trade.
text source : http://bullion.nwtmint.com/gold_history.php

Red-hot diamond on block at Sotheby's Australia

source : nationaljewelernetwork.com
April 01, 2010

The 0.82-carat center stone of this ring will mark the first red diamond to be offered for public auction in Australia. The ring is estimated at as much as $921,556 and also features fancy blue diamonds and brilliant-cut colorless diamonds set in platinum.

Sydney, Australia--Sotheby's Australia's upcoming April 12 sale of antique and contemporary jewelry will be a significant one for the auction house. The event will mark the Australian branch's first standalone jewelry sale, with the highlight slated to be the first red diamond ever offered for public auction in Australia.

The 0.82-carat, fancy purplish-red Argyle diamond is set into a ring and is flanked by a pair of fancy blue diamonds in a round brilliant-cut diamond surround, all mounted in platinum. Its value is estimated at between 700,000 and 1 million Australian dollars (between about $645,065 and $921,556) and will be accompanied by a letter from Argyle Diamonds attesting to its rarity.

Sotheby's said in a media release that despite the notable discovery of the Argyle pink diamond deposits in Western Australia, less than a handful of red diamonds have been discovered, and connoisseurs have long considered red diamonds to be among the most precious and rare of diamonds.

The April 12 sale will offer even more superb examples of colored stones, including a double strand of graduated emerald beads accented with diamond-set rondelles (estimated between $9,676 and $11,519), a sapphire and diamond ring (estimated between $23,034 and $32,248) and an emerald and diamond ring (estimated between $64,497 and $82,907). ...

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Black Diamonds

What are Black Diamonds, as seen in most jewelry?

Black diamonds are typically enhanced. Black diamonds are genuine diamonds treated with radiation to make their color appear black. Under normal lighting conditions the color enhanced black diamond looks black. However, it is actually very dark green. To observe the very dark green color, a fiber-optic light source can be placed near a thin edge of the diamond (such as the girdle or culet). This allows the light to illuminate some of the interior of the stone. The very dark green color that becomes visible is commonly seen in enhanced black diamonds. The very dark green color that is seen is never seen in natural diamonds. It is a result of radiation treatment.

Famous Black Diamonds

The Black Orloff

The Black Orloff (Orlov) cushion cut diamond (shown left) which still weighs in at a very respectable 67.50 carats. It is reported to have belonged to a nineteenth-century shrine near Pondicherry, India, and to have weighed 195 carats in the rough. Set in a diamond and platinum necklace, the Black Orloff has been widely exhibited. In 1969, the stone was sold for $300,000. It was resold in 1990 at Sothebys for $99,000. Also called the Eye of Brahma Diamond. The diamond is currently owned by Dennis Petimezas, a diamond dealer from Pennsylvania who bought the diamond for an unspecified sum in 2005.

"The Gruosi" Black Diamond

Upon creating amazing black diamond jewelry for his luxury jewelry house de Grisogono, chairman and founder Fawaz Gruosi enjoys a special place in diamond history: he is credited with popularizing the fascination with black diamonds in 1996 - a fascination that continues today.

He also had a rare opportunity - a rare opportunity even for a grand jeweler like himself: he got to name a diamond. Naming a diamond is something reserved only for original buyers of a rough diamond. The de Grisogono founder chose the name "The Gruosi" for the incredible 115.34-carat black diamond. In fact, Fawaz Gruosi has actually been involved in naming two diamonds - the other being the 312.24-carat "The Spirit of Grisogono," also a black diamond with the famous Swiss jeweler Mr. de Grisogono. These two black diamonds are the two largest black diamonds in the world.

sources : generousgems.com,blackdiamonds.co.uk,vialuxe.com

Swarovski latest to fall under silver’s spell

source : nationaljewelernetwork.com
April 23, 2010

Swarovski's first sterling silver collection, the "Manhattan Collection" features pieces like these featuring silver and black cubic zirconia.

New York-Austrian crystal giant Swarovski clearly has a thing for New York: Besides releasing the "Manhattan Collection," its sterling silver debut, the brand's boutiques worldwide will be decorated with a Sex and the City 2 theme, playing up the jewelry and accessories featured in the film.

In a departure from its predominantly costume jewelry focus, Swarovski is bringing its fashion-forward ethos to the company's first sterling silver jewelry collection, the "Manhattan Collection," unveiled as part of its fall collection.

The collection features a modern chain-link silhouette, with pieces crafted in .925 sterling silver with rhodium plating, and offered at price points ranging from $260 to $320. The designs deploy a black-and-white motif, mixing sterling silver with the brand's black cubic zirconia stones.

The silver collection will be available in early August in Swarovski boutiques, through authorized Swarovski retailers and on the brand's Web site, Swarovski.com. ...

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Stuller system gets Kera bead sales rolling

source : nationaljewelernetwork.com
April 23, 2010

Stuller has created a selling system to make selling its branded Kera bead collection easier.

Lafayette, La.--Stuller has launched a marketing support system for Kera, the branded bead collection that the Lafayette, La.-based jewelry manufacturer initially launched in November 2009.

The comprehensive Kera Selling System can be purchased for less than $5,000 and is accompanied by full marketing support, including more than 150 total Murano, glass and sterling silver beads; six varieties of bracelet styles and two necklace styles; fashionable packaging; marketing brochures and branded polishing cloths and counter pad. ...

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Famous Emeralds

Gachala Emerald (origin: Colombia)
The Gachala Emerald is an uncut 5-cm emerald crystal weighing 858 carats (172 g). The stone was found in 1967 at Vega de San Juan mine in Colombia and is named after the mining district where it was discovered. Now in the United States, it was donated to the Smithsonian Institution by the New York jeweler, Harry Winston.



Chalk Emerald (origin: Colombia)
The Chalk Emerald is a 37.82 carats (7.56 g) Colombian emerald.

It originally weighed 38.40 carats (7.68 g), but was recut and set in a ring, where it is surrounded by sixty pear-shaped diamonds (totalling 15 carats (3.0 g), by Harry Winston Inc. The ring is housed in the National Gem and Mineral Collection at the Smithsonian Natural History Museum in the United States and was donated to the museum by Mr. and Mrs. O. Roy Chalk in 1972.

Duke of Devonshire Emerald (origin: Colombia)

The Duke of Devonshire Emerald gets its name from the 6th Duke of Devonshire, William Cavendish, who according to one version, received the enormous gemstone as a gift from the first emperor of Brazil, Don Pedro I, the son of King John VI of Portugal, but according to a second version purchased the gemstone from the emperor.

The Duke of Devonshire Emerald is a terminated hexagonal-shaped crystal discovered from the mines of Muzo, Santa Fe de Bogota, in Colombia, reputed to be the premier source of the world's finest emeralds. It is an exceptional deep-green emerald, with perfect transparency in certain areas, but heavily flawed in other areas. The emerald that measures 5 cm across the pinacoid also has a height of about 5 cm, and weighs 1,383.95 carats. The emerald had a reputation as the largest and finest uncut emerald in existence.

Mackay Emerald
The stunning 167.97-carat Mackay Emerald was mined in Muzo, Columbia. The largest cut emerald in the National Gem Collection, it is set in an Art Deco diamond and platinum necklace designed by Cartier Inc. In 1931, Clarence H. Mackay presented the necklace as a wedding gift to his wife, Anna Case, a prima donna of the New York Metropolitan Opera from 1909 to 1920. The piece was donated to the Smithsonian Institute by Mrs. Anna Case Mackay in 1984. Source: The National Gem Collection by Jeffrey E. Post.

Jewelry Art Awards 2009 of Jewelry Artist Magazine

The 2009 Jewelry Arts Awards

Jewelry Artist magazine's annual competition yields 10 outstanding winners

Pins & Brooches

Naomi Sarna
First Place, Pins/Brooches
(Also Best of Competition)
FIRST WAVE
32mm x 23mm. 18K gold, Chinese freshwater pearl, VS diamonds, Montana sapphires, Contra-luz opals, Imperial topaz. Handmade lost-wax gold setting surrounding pegged and epoxy-set pearl. All stones are pave set with bright-cut finishing. Photo: Azad. sarna.naomi@gmail.com, naomisarnadesigns.com

Naomi Sarna
Second Place, Pins/Brooches
JUBILANT HEART. 38.5mm x 43.3 mm. 87.5 carat rose quartz, 18K gold, VS diamonds, Montana sapphire, Impreial topaz, Contra-luz opal. Lost-wax carved and gold-cast setting. Photo: Azad. sarna.naomi@gmail.com, naomisarnadesigns.com

Bracelets

Genevieve Yang
First Place, Bracelets
MOON PHASES CUFF. 2.0" x 2.5" x 1.75". Fine silver, sterling silver edge, and 24K gold. Spray of flush set VS F plus diamonds, Hand fabricated, forged, roller embossed, keumboo, flush setting. Photo: Hap Sakwa. genevieve@genevieveyang.com, www.genevieveyang.com

Alex Maryaskin
Second Place, Bracelets
UNTITLED. 8". 14K yellow gold, Australian opal, and diamonds. Filigree work, scroll work, and spiral and granulation detail. Photo: Ralph Gabriner. 757-596-0481, www.artoffiligree.com

Earrings

Nanz Aalund
First Place, Earrings
NAUTILUS EARRINGS
33mm x 5mm x 26mm each earring. 22K gold and epoxy resin. Corrugated 22K gold is spiraled with epoxy resin cast into the spiral. Fabricated ear clip. Photo: Doug Yaple. nanz@nanzaalund.com, www.nanzaalund.com

Pendants/Necklaces

Marie Scarpa
First Place, Pendants/Necklaces
TWENTY ONE. 3.25" x 3" x 5". 20-gauge Argentium sheet, 3mm Argentium heavy walled tubing, 12-gauge round Argentium wire, 36-gauge 3½% platinum silver wire, 34-gauge 18K yellow gold wire, 7mm 1.51 carat whirlpool cut citrine, 2.5mm round faceted black spinels, 4.5 round white freshwater pearls. Fabrication including sawing and soldering, hand weaving, stone setting and hand polishing, and texturing. Photo: Hap Sakwa. 707-765-6558, www.mariescarpadesigns.com.

Melissa Pedersen
Second Place, Pendants/Necklaces
CELEBRATION SPROUT NECKLACE. 25cm x 15cm x 3cm. Sterling silver, Argentium silver, 3mm fresh water pearls. Hand carved wax, lost wax casting, fused, constructed, and soldered. Photo by the artist. info@melissapedersen.com, www.melissapedersen.com.

Miscellaneous Jewelry

Jeffrey Appling
First Place, Miscellaneous Jewelry
BROKEN CIRCLE. 17" and 10mm. Sterling silver, 14K white gold, 14K yellow gold plate, 13mm faceted triangular black spinel, 2.0mm black diamonds, and 2mm colorless diamonds. Black rubber neoprene. Carved, cast, fabricated, flush set and tension set. Photo: Hap Sakwa. 760-322-2883, www.JeffreyAppling.com.

Robin Antonsen
Second Place, Miscellaneous Jewelry
OBJECT. 6". Sterling silver hair pin. Constructed, rolling mill, hydraulic press, and patina. Photo by the artist. brightshadow@cheerful.com.

Rings

Jeffrey Appling
First Place, Rings
SURFER RINGS. 15mm x 21mm x 29mm. Silver and copper with paint pigment cross-linked into the upper metal molecules, 2mm diamonds, 7.5mm freshwater cultured pearls. Carved, cast, tension set, flush set, baked. Photo: Hap Sakwa. 760-322-2883, www.JeffreyAppling.com.


L. Sue Szabo
Second Place, Rings
SWAY. 1.5" L x 0.375" W 1" D. Sterling silver, 4 carat pink sapphires, 0.33 carat burmese ruby. Hand fabricated, tube settings for gems. Photo: Ericka Crissman/Wired Images. www.lsueszabo.com

For information on entering your jewelry in the next competition, click here!

source : jewelryartistmagazine.com

A Storied Name in Jewelry Makes a Comeback

source : nytimes.com
By JULIA WERDIGIER
Published: September 9, 2009

A firebird brooch from the Fabergé jewelry collection.

LONDON — Fabergé, jeweler to the last Russian czar and creator of the legendary Imperial Easter eggs, made a comeback of sorts Wednesday when it presented its first jewelry collection in more than 90 years, even as other luxury goods makers are bracing for a tough year.

The collection is the result of a two-year effort by Fabergé’s owners, a group of investors led by the British private-equity firm Pallinghurst Resources, to revive the brand by reuniting it with two heirs of the Fabergé family.

The firm also assembled a management and design team that includes Mark Dunhill, former president of Alfred Dunhill, a leather and accessories maker owned by the Swiss luxury goods company Richemont, and Frédéric Zaavy, an avant-garde Parisian jeweler. ...

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By choice or not, jewelers fall off brand-wagon

source : nationaljewelernetwork.com
By Michelle Graff
April 15, 2010

Hearts on Fire says it is renewing its focus on bridal pieces, like this "Beloved" ring, featuring a 0.75-carat center stone and 0.37- to 0.47-carat side stones; setting retails for $2,650.

New York--In a month known for hearts and cupid's arrows, some of the industry's biggest brands weren't showing recession-battered retailers any love.

In February, both diamond company Hearts on Fire and the Richemont Group-owned Cartier acknowledged they were severing ties with under-performing retailers, and both cited essentially the same reason: They wanted to maximize their brand's potential by partnering only with those retailers who really know how to push their product.

Stories detailing these divorces blew up online at NationalJeweler.com, remaining on the site's top-viewed list for weeks. But was the frenzy whipped up by the jewelers directly impacted or by the love-hate relationship jewelers often harbor when it comes to their favorite brands? Longtime retailers and industry observers suggest the latter. ...

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Yael Designs celebrates Earth Day with 'Pacifica'

April 13, 2010

Yael Designs' new "Pacifica" collection includes earrings, pendants and rings, such as this one above, featuring tanzanite and colorless diamonds set into recycled 18-karat gold.

San Francisco--Fine jewelry design house Yael Designs has launched a new ocean-inspired collection just in time for Earth Day, and has also announced its role in an auction that raises funds for environmental causes.

The sea-centric "Pacifica Collection" features deep blue tanzanite stones, ranging in size from 3 to 22 carats, and set into diamond-accented rings, earrings and pendants. The 38 pieces in the collection are available in 18-karat recycled white or yellow gold, and retail from $5,000 to $25,000.

According to Yael Designs Chief Executive Officer Yehouda Saketkhou, the collection was inspired by the beauty of the Pacific Ocean, noting that its crashing waves lie less than a mile from the company's headquarters.

"I was attracted by tanzanite's royal blue and violet hues," Saketkhou said in a media release. "I often walk around the beaches of the Pacific Ocean and think this beautiful stone tells the story of our blue planet, dominated by oceans that are in dire need of protection." ...

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QVC, Smithsonian partnering on jewelry line

April 09, 2010 Washington--In what may seem like an unusual pairing, multichannel retailer QVC is teaming up with the Smithsonian Institute to create a line of fashion jewelry inspired by the museum's collection of iconic pieces.

In a news release issued Friday, the Washington, D.C.-based Smithsonian, the world's largest museum and research complex, announced it was entering into a licensing agreement with QVC to offer a jewelry collection based on objects in the National Gem and Mineral Collection, which is part of the National Museum of Natural History. The QVC-Smithsonian collection is expected to launch this fall.

The National Gem and Mineral Collection contains more than 375,000 individual specimens, and counts among its ranks world-famous pieces such as the blue Hope Diamond and the Marie Antoinette Earrings, as well as a research and mineral collection used by scientists around the world, the release states.

The line with QVC will include earrings, rings, bracelets, pins and brooches, as well as replicas of pieces in the museum's collection.

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De Beers' 'Millenium Blue' sells for $6 million

April 08, 2010

Hong Kong--A 5.16-carat fancy vivid blue diamond, once part of De Beers' Millennium Jewels Collection, sold for $6.4 million at Sotheby's Hong Kong on Wednesday, as diamonds continued to show strength in the auction market.

According to a news release from the auction house, Moussaieff of London emerged as the winning bidder for the pear-shaped diamond, which sold for well over its estimated sale price of $4.1 million to $5.1 million following "intense" bidding.

The sought-after stone was once one of the 11 blue diamonds in the Millennium Jewels Collection, a group of rare diamonds selected by Andrew Coxon, president of the De Beers Institute of Diamonds, to mark the turn of the millennium.

Wednesday's sale of the 5.16-carat millennium blue marks the first time one of these stones has been put up for sale since the diamonds were placed with private collectors in 2000.

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Etruscan-inspired gold exhibit sets sail for U.S.

April 08, 2010
Gold jewelry from Italian master goldsmith Akelo, such as the necklace above, will be on display in a new exhibit opening June 5 in Columbia, Mo.

Columbia, Mo.--Ancient Etruscan-inspired gold jewelry designs will be featured this summer in a first-ever museum exhibition from Italian master goldsmith Andrea Cagnetti, also known as "Akelo."

The exhibition, "The Voyage of a Contemporary Italian Goldsmith in the Classical World: Golden Treasures by Akelo," was conceived and organized by the Museum of Art and Archeology at the University of Missouri in Columbia, Mo., and will open to the public there on June 5.

Akelo creates one-of-a-kind pieces of 22-karat gold jewelry and precious golden objects inspired by the gold designs of the ancient Etruscans, who were known for their fantastic artistry and craftsmanship. The goldsmith's work is based on myths, legends and symbols derived from ancient worlds, which is then rendered in gold via a knowledge of alchemy that is the result of years of in-depth study of ancient and medieval texts.

The exhibition "concentrates on the artist's voyage and ultimate transcendence of the Etruscan, Greek and Roman influences that inspire him as an artist," Mary Pixley, museum curator and exhibition organizer, said in a media release. "Unparalleled technical perfection is married with a timeless classicizing language and the artist's own aesthetic sensibility in Akelo's golden creations."

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Celebrity Diamond Engagement Rings run the Gamut

Posted By Leanne in Celebrty News

If you are looking for flashy engagement rings you need look no further than Hollywood. Celebrities have somewhat of a reputation when it comes to sporting extremely large and flashy engagement rings. While a one or two carat diamond engagement ring might seem like a lavish ring to the girl next door, nothing less than a three carat diamond engagement ring will do for many celebrities. Multi-carat diamond engagement rings in elaborate settings are definitely ‘in’ when you have photogs trailing behind you and trying to snap pictures of every second of your day.

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In Pictures: America's Most Popular Diamond Cuts

Round

With one out of every three diamonds sold in the U.S. being a classic round brilliant diamond, this cut is far and away the most popular.

Scarlett Johansson and singer Fergie both sport classic rounds.
Princess

The princess diamond was created in 1980 but has catapulted into massive popularity, making it the second-most popular diamond cut in the U.S. Diamond analyst Kenneth Gassman estimates that princess cut diamonds make up approximately 13% to 20% of diamond sales.

Freddie Prinze Jr. proposed to Sarah Michelle Gellar with a princess cut.

Emerald

The third-most popular cut has long clear "step cuts," which emphasize the diamond's clarity and gives it a more subtle appearance than the "brilliant" cuts of most diamonds.

Nick Cannon proposed to Mariah Carey with a reported $2.5 million emerald-cut diamond.

Pear Shape

The pear shape, the fifth-most popular diamond, is also called a "tear drop" for its single point and rounded end.

The most famous pear-shaped diamond has to be the 69-carat pear-shaped diamond given to Elizabeth Taylor by her fifth and sixth husband Richard Burton. Taylor wore the Taylor-Burton diamond in a necklace.


Asscher

The Asscher cut has been around for a century but soared in popularity, especially in Hollywood, after being featured in an episode of Sex and the City in which nice-guy Aidan proposed to protagonist Carrie Bradshaw.

Kate Hudson and Elizabeth Hurley were both given Asscher cuts by their soon-to-be husbands.

Source: Kenneth Gassman, The Diamond Source of Virginia, Blue Nile.
source : http://forbeslife.nl/2009/04/17/engagement-weddings-diamonds-forbes-woman-style-retail_slide.html?partner=contextstory

World's most famous 'unseen' diamond

By Jane O'Brien
BBC News, Washington

The room was dimly lit. Armed guards stood at both entrances and enormous ironclad doors were slid shut to seal the gallery.

Nobody spoke above a whisper as we waited for the first glimpse in half a century of one of the world's most extraordinary gems.

The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond was last seen in public at the 1958 World Exhibition in Brussels. After that, it disappeared and its whereabouts remained a mystery until Laurence Graff, a billionaire diamond dealer, bought it at auction in 2008, appending his surname.

He and his son Francois were in the gallery of the Smithsonian's National Museum of Natural History in Washington DC as the blue stone, was brought up from a secret vault and finally revealed.

Flawless beauty

"I've been privileged over the years to own some of the world's most important and famous diamonds, but I would say that the Wittelsbach-Graff is the most valuable and the most beautiful," he said.

Sitting unadorned on a silken white cloth, it glittered grey and blue in the low light. Classed as "internally flawless" it is said to have exceptional colour and becomes intense orange when viewed under ultraviolet light.

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